City Life

The trick to getting around a big city is this:. “City Life” is published by Hesperus J. Algonquin in The South Will Write Again.

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Armenia in Italy? Only in Naples.

A unique blend of cosmopolitan Europe in the heart of Naples. Dive in to be taken back 600 years ago, in Naples!

San Gregorio Armeno (St. Gregory the Armenian) is one of the most famous streets in Naples (Italy). Well known for its artisan workshops and stores, selling nativity scene figurines and other traditional Christmas decorations. Curious enough? Well, its story runs much deeper than that.

Antonello Mirone (Historian) in San Gregorio Armeno. Naples, 2023.
Me walking down St. Gregorio Armeno (Naples, 2023)

From the outside you can recognize it thanks to its unique bell tower (picture below), blending uniquely and making the street stand out. This bell tower was also functional over the years as it has been used as an “overpass”, due to its location between buildings.

San Gregorio Armeno bell tower.
St. Gregorio Armeno Belltower (picture by me, 2023)
Inside the church of San Gregorio Armeno. Chiesa di San Gregorio Armeno.
Inside Chiesa of St. Gregory (Me, 2023)

But it’s not the church that draws crowds to San Gregorio Armeno. It’s the dozens of artisan workshops and stores that line the street, selling everything from miniature figurines of the Baby Jesus to elaborate nativity scenes that can take up an entire room. The street is trendy during the Christmas season, when thousands of tourists and locals flock here to buy Christmas decorations and gifts.

Various figurines for Presepi (Naples, 2023)

The artisans are responsible for keeping this tradition alive. Many of them are third or fourth-generation craftsmen who learned the trade from their parents or grandparents. They use traditional methods and materials to create their figurines, including terracotta, papier-mâché, and wood. Each figurine is made by hand and takes hours, if not days, to complete.

Walking down here is a feast for the senses. The air is filled with the scent of fresh paint and glue, and the sound of artisans hammering and sawing echoes off the narrow cobblestone streets. The storefronts are packed with presepi of all shapes and sizes, from the smallest figurines to life-size nativity scenes that can cost thousands of euros.

One of the most fascinating things about San Gregorio Armeno is the sheer variety of presepi you can find here. There are presepi depicting everything from biblical scenes to modern-day celebrities. You can find presepi of pizza makers, fishmongers, and street vendors, as well as presepi of popes, politicians, and soccer players. There are even presepi featuring characters from TV shows and other popular movies.

Bare in mind, this place is close to the Basilica of San Lorenzo Maggiore (Click here to read article), it will make your tour in Naples unforgettable!

Find some useful links down here, and if you liked the article please consider to like and follow, helps a lot!

Take care and see you next !

Pulcinella, a character or “mask” (maschera) from commedia dell’arte

History of Presepe

Official website of the Monastery of St. Gregorio Armeno

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